Jake McCrary

Climbing in the Red River Gorge

This was a beautiful weekend climbing and camping in the Red River Gorge of Kentucky. Seamus and I spent our first day at Inner Sanctum and climbed the following routes.

It was a great day of climbing. This crag also has more to offer. There are a couple of highly rated 5.12s here as well. The highlight route of our day was Psyberpunk. It is a fantastic face climb with two crux sections. Just keep going up on Psyberpunk. There is no way Consenting Adult should be rated easier than Psyberpunk.

Day two was spent primarily getting to Purple Valley. It is a far away crag that takes some time to drive to and then takes quite a bit of time to hike to. Because of road closures, you end up hiking over two rivers. Look for a pile of rocks after the second river that marks the start of a trail. We hiked out to this crag to climb Electric Cowboy. We failed to climb it though because this crag was weirdly busy. Instead we climbed Come in your Lycra (5.10a) and Delusions of Grandeur (5.11b).

According to our guidebook, Come in your Lycra is one of the best 5.10a and under routes (online guidebook has it at 5.10c) in the Red. It is a great line with a really fun top.

Delusions of Grandeur is a great slab climb. There are some great transitions using underclings and high steps to move up the climb. The top turns to a big move jug throw. If you throw left and don’t hit something good, throw further. This route tops out. If you go climb it, you should bring some new webbing and hardware to replace the old webbing at the top of it.